by Manjari Verma
Right in the heart of Malabar Hill lies the Banganga Tank, a place that has the power to transport you straight to Varanasi. Well, almost. The journey to Banganga begins after you reach Teen Batti in Walkeshwar. A 15 minute walk off the main road and you reach what seems like a completely different place.
Don’t expect anything earth shattering but if you have ever been to Varanasi, you will recognise hints of it in the surrounding areas. Sadhus, beggars, small vendors selling religious beads and necklaces, flower sellers, street food carts, shops selling pictures of gods, barbers, fresh jalebi and samosas being made: the entire walk to the tank is lined with people selling something or another.
Legend has it that while looking for his wife Sita, Ram was overcome by thirst and told his brother Laxman to bring him some water. Laxman shot an arrow into the ground and water sprung out: they say this water is an underground offshoot of the Ganges, hence the name Banganga - baan meaning arrow, and the water being from the Ganga.
The rectangular tank is surrounded by wide stone steps, at the beginning of which are small houses with deity sculptures or photographs kept outside. Standing there, you feel like you are in someone’s backyard. Sit and take in the surroundings: sadhus on one side, children flying kites on the other, pujaris chanting mantras in one corner while ducks and swans leisurely swim around in the tank. It didn’t feel like Mumbai until I looked up and saw the skyscrapers all around me.
People living there consider the tank to be a very sacred place. On every big religious occasion, especially on days like the Pitru Paksha, hundreds turn up to take a dip. Prayers are recited, homage paid to Gods and diyas and flowers float in the tank. The people who live around the tank don’t even seem to feel the need to step into the city and they feel particularly proud that many movies were shot here, one of the most famous one being ‘Laaga Chunri Mein Daag’: apparently, a lot of the scenes set in Varanasi were shot right here, in Mumbai, at Banganga.
While the tank is pretty much neglected throughout the year, a good time to visit is in January. Every year, for two days in this month, the entire place is transformed for the Banganga Festival; a famous music festival with many a renowned classical singers and musicians performing along the banks. The tank looks lovely, decorated with lights, diyas and flowers. Dance and cultural events are also part of this festival.
Be it for the festival, or just to enjoy a bit of Varanasi in Bombay, the Banganga tank is a good place to spend a few hours away from the chaos of the city.
After spending 5 years in advertising as a copywriter, Manjari Verma realised her true calling lay in traveling and writing about it instead. Now, she freelances as a travel writer for various websites and publications and is the owner of Broken Compass, an offbeat holiday planning company based out of Mumbai.
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