When in Rajasthan, do as the Maharajas do. So spend a couple of days at Samode Palace, just about an hour outside Jaipur, a deram-like heritage royal palace turned into a luxury resort.

The palace is on top of a cute little village, only a bit too touristy for our tastes, full of shops where overpriced handicrafts are sold by amazingly smart salesman who seem to know how to rip you off in all the world''s languages. 

But that is just fine, because once you reach the palace it's going to take a while before you are willing to get out to explore its surroundings (though a drive - or a camel ride - through the rural area and desert outside the village is much recommended).

Beautiful and spacious rooms, all the amenities of a luxury hotel, two lovely pools - one of which, the infinity pool, may be the most relaxing place in the whole of Rajasthan: the list of things to love about Samode Palace is pretty long.

We particularly liked the dinner menu at the restaurant: great Indian food with a contemporary twist, much more interesting than  five-star versions of traditional dishes that, in most cases, simply taste better at the dhaba on the highway. The home made ice cream is a winner, black pepper and vanilla would be our flavour of choice except it seems to melt too quickly. 

And while you are at Samode Palace, don't forget to go see the Durbar Hall - it's museum-worthy. So next time you are around Jaipur, treat yourself to a royal experience, or get to Samode for a long-weekend getaway from Delhi: you'll get back in town relaxed and completely in love with India.