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18th May 2012
by Manreet Deol
Thigma is a traditional tie-dye technique practiced in most parts of Ladakh, India. Its characteristic is the over sized dot pattern that is rendered in vibrant colors on strips of locally produced wool fabric. Women expertly pinch the fabric into a special quadrant pattern which is then dyed in bright ochers, maroons and charcoal blacks to reveal motifs that are at once traditional and almost psychedelic in an earthy ferrous way. Often used in the making of traditional shoes and clothing, its use in contemporary life is sadly limited and diminishing.
I discovered thigma while visiting remote villages in the region and this led me to join forces with a local NGO which is working towards the re-introduction of this vanishing craft to the rural communities. In doing so the goal is to help supplement the summer agricultural income of families and also to help conserve the everyday use of this craft by the locals.
Collaborating with them, I initiated a small design and training workshop to explore new and alternative uses for this resource. What drew me most to this fabric was its strong character that is quite distinctive and different from tie-dye produced in other parts of the country. I decided to make this the focal point of the design explorations and commenced the project with a few women who would in time travel and train a larger group.
Staying true to with the self sufficiency motto of the region, our primary goal was to use all raw materials and skills that already existed locally. It was equally important to retain the essence of the craft while making products that had a wider audience and use. Instead of using the fabric in the four inch wide ribbons that it existed in, we hit upon the idea of cutting out the circular patterns from the cloth and hand stitching them into little pillow-like forms that we stuffed with leftover fabric.
By freeing these colorful three dimensional medallions from a two dimensional fabric, we created a simply made element that was perfect for assembling myriad of fashion accessories. We stitched some together, strung then up with faux corral and turquoise beads to form necklaces, pendents, earrings and brooches. The jewelry seemed to possess an almost Tantric Aura - strong, powerful statement making pieces that are beautiful worn with the traditional Ladakhi dress or the more urban fashions.
Possibilities are endless and I hope these initial explorations act as sources of inspiration for thousands more that the women will envision and create. I know I am putting in an advance order for a grandiose Rani Haar but made Thigma style!
For orders please contact manreetdeol@gmail.com
Manreet Deol is an Indian product designer who has lived and worked in New Delhi and New York. She now lives in Pondicherry where she moved to set up a design studio that focuses on craft revival projects. She is interested in exploring the relationships between contemporary design sensibilities and ancient crafts. Her other interests include travel, electopop, sustainable agriculture, midcentury minimal sculpture and noodles.
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