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18th May 2012
by Annalisa Merelli
Hidden between dry cleaners, travel agencies and Kashmiri handicraft stores in the centre of Leh, Utpala is not an easy shop to notice. From the outside, the shy, little windows show what seems just the usual collection of pashima scarves, Kullu shawls and traditional dolls. The signs advertising pashmina and exclusive silk, the same you'd find in any other shop in town, don't add much interest to the package.
But as I entered the store, attracted by its low-key appearance and lack of “please have a look” pushy vendor, I found something truly unique. Forget about pashmina and wool that you can find everywhere else in town, but the silk really is special there.It's beautiful silk, and of great quality, but what makes it great is that it’s completely eco-friendly: it is all dyed in Leh using natural colours. P. Angmo, the lady who runs the store, will explain to you which natural element each of the dyes she uses for her interesting patters comes from.
Another peculiarity of the shop is that it doesn't sell scarves, shawls nor garments, but simple, gorgeous fabric, and the choice of how to use it is up to your creative fashion sense. P. Angmo will help you find a local tailor: I got a scarf made from a small cut of silk and the result was good. Well, I guess it’s the silk that does the magic, and you can't really go wrong with that.
So, if you like textiles, don't miss this small shop. It might not be the cheapest, but that’s because of the selection of products, the hand work and the quality of the dyeing. At Utpala, you can get something really unique, and for a change come back from your holiday with a souvenir that you won’t see on everyone else in town.
Utpala
Natural Vegetable Dye Shop
Shop 19, Hemis Complex
Zangsti Road, Leh
Ph. +91.990.697.8107
Annalisa Merelli is the editor of The India Tube.
J. Adam Huggins is an independent documentary photographer. His work can be seen on his website.
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