There are a few buildings in Delhi that have lived through its various eras and still continue to live in a way. Adham Khan’s tomb in Mehrauli, behind Qutub Minar is one such monument.

It was built during the early Mughal period in mid 16th century. Adham Khan was a noble man and a general in Mughal emperor Akbar’s court and was also his foster brother as his mother, Maham Anga, was the wet nurse of Akbar. Legend is that during the Malwa war Adham khan was smitten by Baz Bahadur’s wife Rani Roopmati, who was a gifted singer. But before he could possess her, she consumed poison, killed herself and cursed Adham Khan that no women would ever visit his tomb. For, long women would not climb the stairs of this tomb.

The tomb is built inside the walls of Lal Kot, one of the earliest forts of Delhi, built the 8th century, and its octagonal structure stands on a huge platform. The main chamber is also octagonal, with a huge dome. Right below the center of the dome is a small grave, and above it, on the ceiling, there is a small circular painting in red and blue. It is difficult to make out if the rest of the dome was also painted. The eight doors of the chamber open into corridors which again have eight sides, each with three openings in the outer platform. Getting lost is not difficult, no wonder this monument is known as ‘Bhool Bhulaiya’, a colloquial name for the labyrinth.

At the moment, all the doors leading to the upper floor are closed, but being on a raised platform, Adham Khan's tomb still offers a good view of the surrounding area, specially the mighty Qutub Minar, which seems to be growing out of the earth. Not only, but a walk around the tomb will bring you into the oldest inhabited area of Delhi.

During the British era, Adham Khan's tomb has served as residence for a British officer, and the main chamber used to be the dining hall. Later the tomb became a rest house, a police station and a post office before being restored by Lord Curzon to its original state.

Today, unfortunately, the monument lies completely ignored. In its dirty corridors, children play hide and seek, and adults cards. As in so many other places in the city, there isn't even a board explaining what the monument is: Adham Khan's tomb is one of Delhi's secret treasures, forgotten in a city overflowing with history, but exactly because of that, it has the flavour of discovery for the visitor.