The Undavalli Caves are on top of the hills, overlooking the Krishna river and the vast green expanses surrounding it. A fine specimen of rock cut architecture, these caves are located in the village of Undavalli, 6km away from Vijayawada and 22 km away from Guntur in Andhra Pradesh.

One of the earliest examples of the Gupta architecture, these caves were excavated in the early 4th and 5th century. They are carved out of solid sandstone on a hillside and associated with the Vishnukundina kings. The sculptures in the caves depict mythological characters and are spread over the four storeys.

The ground floor consists of a low pillared hall with a number of columns resembling a Buddhist vihara which was used as a rest house during monsoons. A small flight of stairs would take one to the first storey where shrines dedicated to the Trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva are present. These shrines have a pillared hall in front of them and are decorated with scenes from mythology and ornamental patterns.

The main attraction of the site is the reclining statue of Lord Vishnu in the sanctum sanctorum on the second storey. Measuring around five metres in length and sculpted out of a single granite stone, together with the carvings on the adjoining wall it is a testimony to the architectural brilliance of the era.

Any attempt at describing this statue would ever come close to the awe one would experience when actually seeing it. In the dark precincts of this cave, Lord Vishnu sleeps on the coils of the serpent Adisesha, the serpent hood framing his majestic face, chiselled to perfection. The attention to detail is mesmerizing as one would notice the Lord flanked by his dwarapalakas (demigod gatekeepers), his carrier Garuda to his right, the devotee Andal in prayer at his holy feet and Lord Brahma seated on a lotus that comes from his navel (which is why he is also called Padmanabha, Padma meaning lotus and Nabha meaning navel). For the religious, lighting a lamp and few incense sticks is permitted.

On the outside, beyond the pillars, sculptures of seated sages are seen in a line all facing outwards. One of them holding the tanpura is distinctly recognized as Narada. The others are sages who have written the scriptures.

It is advisable to visit the caves during the monsoon when the weather is relatively cooler and the paddy fields are at the greenest, enhancing the beauty of the environs. Carry a torch, and appreciate the intricate beauty of the sculptures created by skilled craftsmen from centuries ago.

 

It is easy to underestimate the merit of lesser known destinations and dismiss even authentic accounts as an overstatement. But if you are in Guntur or Vijayawada, and have a few hours to spare, a trip to the cave temple at Undavalli can guarantee a breathtaking view of Lord Vishnu which is certain to remain etched in memory for a long time.