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18th May 2012

Images by Sharada Balasubramanian

A stone chariot in Tamil Nadu

by Sharada Balasubramanian

Just about three kilometres of dusty lanes, narrow winding paths and small culverts from the temple town of Kumbakkonam is the rustic, tranquil and picturesque Darasuram. Described as a sculptor’s dream re-lived in stone, this temple is among the four biggest built by the Chola kings and falls under the UNESCO list of "Great living Chola temples".

Built by Raja Raja Cholan the 2nd in the 12th century AD, the temple was initially known as Raja Raja Puram but the name changed with time, finally becoming Darasuram.

There is a great sense of serenity, a unique calmness in Darasuram, unlike the temples thronged by people. A few people laze on verdant grass, beating away the heat in the cool shadow of coconut and mango trees that outlines the temple premises. The outer wall of the temple has a line of small bulls carved from rocks. The temple is designed in the shape of a chariot and has intricate carvings that leave the visitor astounded, and entering it is like stepping into a colossal chariot, like a queen, or king.

The main mandapa (outdoor pavillon) of the temple is called Raja Gambira and is lined with one hundred pillars portraying women dancing in different poses. There also are small carvings on the pillars depicting the marriage between Shiva and Parvati, Parvati dancing and taking bath, Shiva taking the form of Nataraja and performing a dance. Standing in the midst of these hundred pillars is Goddess Periya Nayaki Ambal. On the ceiling, there is a carved open lotus where Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati are seated.

From the mandapa the one can also see the elephant pulling the chariot. According to the legend, Airavat, the white elephant of Lord Indra, had lost the white colour of his body because of a curse, so he came to worship Lord Shiva so that he liberate him from the curse.

Another legend connected to the temple is the one of Lord Yama who, under a curse, suffered from a burning sensation all over his body and immersed himself in a tank of water in the location of the temple to relieve the pain. The water tank, which still exists, is called Yamatheertham and the water is said to have curative power, so often the devotees who visit the temple take a dip in it.

The temple is magnificent, and particularly worth a visit because of its quite surroundings. It gives the visitor the time, peace and space to admire the incredible architecture, learn its legend and feel like a royalty.