The Nehru Trophy Boat Race on the Punnamda Lake, near Alappuzha, is one of the most competitive, spirited of boat races in Kerala, if not in India.

The star attraction of the race is the contest of Chundans or snake boats. An inspiring sight, measuring over 100 feet in length, with a raised prow and helm, manned by 100 to 120 men these shinning sleek ebony black boats ply heatedly through the otherwise calm waters of the lake. Striving for a win at the intensely competitive event is a coveted honor not only for the team but the whole village it represents.

The first snake boat race was an impromptu act of the many boats-men who displayed their skill to the first Prime Minister of India, Pundit Nehru in the year 1952.

It’s said, that Nehruji jumped elated into the winning boat disregarding all security concerns, enjoyed the rhythmic beats of the drummers while plying through the waters escorted by the snake boats. Impressed by the skillman ship he donated a “Silver Trophy” and henceforth the villages of Kuttanad celebrate this race every year in August.

The race day is a product of many months of preparation. The best oarsmen undergo a rigorous training schedule, adhering to abstinence and celibacy; a single neglected act among the 100 plus boatmen can be lethal, bringing an abrupt end.

The synchronized way of rowing needs devoted training and inherent aptitude. Those who steer the vessel need to posses know how of water currents and observation power of high order while navigating the race lines. Eighty-six persons are rowers, ten to fifteen are to give the rhythm, four are to steer the vessel.

The predominantly Hindu and Christian village community comes together in mass celebrations prior to the race day. The money for the boat, uniforms and other things related for the regalia all come from contributions from the villagers themselves. Religion is no bar for participation, symbolizing communal amity in “God’s own country”.

The pageantry and excitement of the race day is unmatched. The festival begins with a procession of the snake boats and other smaller varieties on the 1.4 km course stretch. A glimpse of Kerala passes you by, with performances of kathakali, theyyam, panchavadyam, and padayani. 

But what the crowd really awaits is the veil of silence, the hoisting of the race flag, the motorboats clearing the waters of any drunken spectators. The air is thick with anticipation.

Advancing through various tracks, the boats appear akin to slithering snakes hissing their way through the waters. The oarsmen splash in unison accompanied by rhythmic chants and beats of drums.

The movements, the especially composed boat songs, the passion in the air draw the spectators right into the fervor of the competition. Throats get hoarse, the heat of the sun forgotten as all eyes are on who is the one to cross the finishing line first.
There are many groups of races, a special women’s only race as well. Clad in bright identical traditional sarees, jasmine in their hair the ladies of Kuttanad are not far behind.

But, of all the races, the most imposing, picturesque and exciting is the finale of the snake boat race. The stance of the graceful as they cut the water, feathering of the oars, the motion of the paddles, the pageantry of color, it all comes to that.Many boat races are held world over, but the grandeur and spirit of the boat races in the wake of the Onam festival in Kerala are surely unmatched.

The traditional 400-year-old legends of the Navy war boats might have been forgotten; today they have become great occasions and state wide competitions, which attract international and national tourists.

So get a glimpse of the other wise calm palm fringed countryside, see the backwaters change into a furry of excitement.