While every city has its attractions and "places to see", it would also have some places which do not feature on any tourist map and still, manage to pull local crowds. Moula Ali Dargah, situated atop the Moula Ali gutta or hillock, is one of those places, and the story about how this shrine came to be is very interesting.
More than four hundred years ago Yakoob, a member of the court of Ibrahim Quli, used to have a recurring dream, in which he had a vision of the imprint of Ali’s palm. Ali or Moula Ali is the son in law and cousin of Prophet Mohammed. One day, while Yakoob was around the Moula Ali hillock, he saw in the rocks the imprint of the palm exactly as it appeared in his dream. A shrine was built around it and later a mosque was built too. Unlike many dargahs, which are usually home to the mortal remains of a saint, this one is unique since it is built for the evidence of a miracle.
As we approach the hillock, it is difficult to ignore yet another part of Hyderabad that radiates warmth and old-world charm. The denizens refuse to let steep high-rises, glass offices, shopping malls, multiplexes or anything remotely swanky invade their lives. The area is a maze of narrow lanes dotted with boys playing gilli-danda or galli-cricket, and girls skipping or playing hide and seek. It may seem like the place is caught in a time warp and one cannot help but wonder if it is for the better.
At the foot of the dargah, it is common to be greeted by a priest chanting hymns and fragrant fumes of incense. As the climb begins, rocks on either side come into view, some etched with advertisements or with the names of lovers hoping to immortalize their feelings. After the first flight of steps, most visitors take a short break to enjoy the view and the gentle breeze.
Climbing another set of two hundred steps, and passing by a few whitewashed arched entrances brings you to the doorway of the dargah. It is amazing how the human mind tends to associate something very symbolic to very ordinary objects: here, it does it to locks hanging along a chain at the entrance of the dargah. A believer would put a lock on the chain if he had a "mannat", or wanted a wish fulfilled. If the wish came true, then he would have to come back and unlock it. There are many rusted locks which seem to implore god to be released and are testimony to the wishes that aren’t granted. Sometimes, when an unsuspecting visitor touches the chain in reverence, one of the locks would fall into his hands.
Inside the dargah, an atmosphere of peace and piety prevails. The innermost precinct houses the imprint of Ali's palm, while on either side there are framed scriptures from the Holy Qu’ran as well as some pictures of the saint. The impression of the hand or panja is hidden behind a curtain: Shia Muslims worship it with flowers and perfumes seeking peace, blessings and forgiveness for the sins and wrongdoing.
While at the top, one is treated with a panorama of the city, with the contrast of many groups of high-rise apartments on one side and the weather sculpted rocks on the other. The viewer can only reserve the empathy for the latter and hope they do not fall prey to the designs of the realtors of the city.
For those who are enthusiastic about another climb, there are a few more dargahs in the vicinity which not only offer a wonderful perspective to the Moulali Dargah, but also allow one to check out some unique rock formations around, included the most popular, called Sentinel Rock.
Far away from the hustle bustle, some moments of peace and quiet, great vantage points, unique rock formations or time to reflect, the dargah offers all these and more.