Chai Shop at the Top

by Joshua Neiderer

Rising above a chillum scented fog and a fading din of acoustic guitars and car horns, Triund offers an escape from the often-sedentary lifestyle offered by Bhagsu and Dharamkot. Situated near Dharmashala, the small Himalayan peak rests a reasonable two or three hour hike above either of the two tourist towns.

So, while many travelers succumb to the daily routine of Yoga classes, silent meditation or a quiet day of intoxicated staring into the hills, a few I’ve met, myself included, have expressed a deep longing to break free of the “shanti” lifestyle.

Some have tried to pick fights and others put bricks into backpacks and push-ups, but my friends and I decided to take a gander at Triund, a green oasis away from the endless Ali Baba pants and Tibetan trinkets of Dharamshala.

Let me preface my personal account of our climb by saying I wasn't in the best shape of my life. Two weeks in India had taken their toll on my weak western digestive system and an easy style of living had started to take hold.

All I'm saying is, an afternoon nap was definitely part of my routine.

We set out woefully underprepared for an assent, which took us about two-and-a-half hours.

I'd certainly suggest wearing something slightly more supportive than a pair of canvas slip-on shoes to anyone making the trip to Triund. Also at least a sweater and we found our umbrellas worked wonderfully as walking sticks.

On the way up I was pleased to find that we did overcome some huffing and puffing trekkers. They were largely carrying giant bags, an outward example of their preparedness.

Along the way, there are a few chai stands. These are good for resting and nice for a snack. We had mango juice and biscuits.

After a few hours of almost-meditative (rock-breath-step-repeat) hiking we made it to a green meadow which would give any suburbanite lawn envy. It stretched for hundreds of meters in either direction. To the left is the glacier, dotted with prayer flags and just in front of us was a teashop.

After enjoying milk tea and some vegetable-noodle soup, we decided to explore a bit. The peak was a misty glade of grass dotted with rocks. The surroundings were such that it was easy to imagine Julie Andrews bounding down from the glacier singing about music and hills come to life.

Triund is not quite above the clouds, but immersed in them. We were lucky enough to make the hike on a relatively clear day.

We explored a guesthouse run by the Himachal Pradesh Forest Department. The accommodations looked Spartan, but certainly livable. The only real problem with the place is, you seem to be on your own as far as toilets are concerned.

After our minor explorations we headed back down the path.

Many of the people we passed however, decided to stay the night in this plush, green wonderland.

Another option, of course, is camping. A group of Americans we met stayed in tents and reported having a magical time.

We made it a day trip. The way down can be just as hard as the way up.

Save your energy and have a good time.