Celebrating Bonalu

by Madhu Reddy

Hyderabad, known to many as the city of Nizam’s, the Mecca of pearls, has a matchless history and contemporary culture.

This city of fortune or “Bhagyanagari” today has become the rising star in India’s IT industry. As the city progresses with influx of technology, it keeps it unique culture alive. See it in the alleyways of the best Biryani’s joints in Charminar, bangles of Laad bazaar, the blend of Hindu and Muslim lives, Hyderabad is a modern city in touch with its grounded roots. Its history, cuisine, language, festivals set this city apart.

One such celebration is Bonalu, a Hindu festival of Goddess Kali that is celebrated in the month of July/August – the time “Ashada masam” or in good old plain English the “monsoons”. In Telugu “Bonalu” means a meal, an offering. Women bring cooked rice with milk, sugar sometimes onions in a brass or earthen pot, adorned with neem branches and turmeric, vermilion, white chalk and place a lamp on the top. They walk to the temples with these colourful pots on their head led by drummers, dancing men and excited kids. There is certain fervour in the air; a strange sense of anticipation follows the crowd, they are keen to see one of these women in trance dancing to the rhythmic beats.

The legend says that the main venue of the festival Ujjaini Mahankali Temple was built by Suriti Appayya in 1815. It is believed that that an epidemic of plague hit Ujjaini in 1813. Appayya, a Hyderabadi who was serving in the army there, prayed to Mahankali and vowed to build a temple in her name if he and his soldiers survived the epidemic. Thus, the city of Ujjaini in Madhya Pradesh is remembered by in Secunderabad since that time.

The procession of silk clad jewelled women carrying the pots is lead by Potharaju, the brother of Mother Goddess. Bare bodied, smeared with turmeric, garlands of flowers, neem and lemon’s, with bells on his ankles, small dhoti, whip in his hands and red vermillion on his forehead, he leads the dancers to the temple.

Following the procession, women possessed tell fortune to those who seek it. The end of the festival is marked by the immersion of the Ghatam, a copper pot dressed as the Mother Goddess. People wait along the main streets as the processions pass them by. Neighborhoods take pride in showing off their local temple Ghatams.

One of the very few times you will see local telangana folk songs along side Potharaju, people dressed up in various mythological roles. A carnival like atmosphere permeates the air in Hyderabad, come join the month long festivities!