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6th September 2010
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kerala backwater, travel attractions Images by Ira Mukhoty

A Strip of Land Called Home

by Ira Mukhoty

I went to Kerala confidently expecting to be disappointed. When a place has been called God’s Own the fall, I morosely believe, would have to be seismic.

I was wrong.

Lying off the Malabar Coast, the backwaters of Kerala are a symphony in green; viridian palms, yellow-green banana trees, emerald paddy and everywhere the shifting, changing slow-moving channels of the lagoons and canals. 

In the middle of all this water, there are entire villages and towns, extending along narrow strips of land sometimes no more than a few metres across, where people live out their lives to the pace of the ebb and flow of the tides of the Arabian sea.  

The day starts with a dip in the brackish water while the washing, strung out between two palm trees, gently dries in the balmy breeze. Ladies share some morning gossip standing outside their huts in knee deep water while the children behind them march off along the narrow strips of land to the nearest school, white ribbons glinting off swinging dark plaits.  

All around us, canoes slide off carrying fishermen  going to set their lobster pots or women sloping off to visit a neighbouring village. A longer journey requires waiting under a red communist flag for National Waterway Boat number 3.

And the people are not alone. Nature is all around; there are crabs, mudskippers, turtles in the water and a huge variety of birds in the sky and in the trees. A watery ecosystem, harmonious and whole. At dusk, I see an entire tree taken over by a squatter colony of cormorants, their profile indignant and angry against a glowing sky.

I come away after 2 days, having slowed down to the beguiling pace of the Backwaters.  I have got used to judging time by the passage of the sun through a stormy sky. As I step of my very own Ketuvallam and away from Vembanad lake, it is with a sense of loss that I leave behind a strip of land I could call home.



Having completed a post-grad degree in genetics, Ira Mukhoti decided to abandon the scientific world to dedicate herself to the tenuous joys of parenthood.  She now mostly spend her time forcing her girls to speak in French, learn Indian classical dance and become conversant in Indian mythology. The rest of her time is dedicated to oil painting.

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