140 km away from Bangalore and 46 km from Dharmapuri city in Tamil Nadu, Hogenakkal Falls translates into ‘Smoking Rocks’ in Kanada - a faithful depiction of the effect the Cauvery river has on this hilly area. Originating at the Brahmagiri hills, the sacred river gathers momentum and size as it travels towards Dharmapuri. On reaching Hogenakkal, it forcefully cascades down the rocks, creating a deep gorge.

While experiencing the local masseurs did leave us slightly drowsy, what followed on our agenda was welcoming to our languor. The high-point of a trip to Hogenakkal is taking a ride in the coracle. In use for over two thousand years by local fishermen, these circular boats are made of leather and tar and have a reputation of never having tipped over.

During the trip, the boatman steered us through the several falls and even took us close enough to thoroughly soak us under one of them. Throughout the ride, the boatman had a bag of tricks to entertain even the most easily distracted tourist. The most inevitable of them is him spinning the coracle around, leading the boat to go spiraling downriver. This is especially heady in the months following the rains.

Cordial relations with the boatman will also lead to him providing you with several other forms of entertainment: for Rs. 10, he can arrange for a ‘show’ where the local boys will dive into the water; for Rs. 5, he will point out places from where you can join the boys for an adrenaline rushing dive of a whooping 20 metres.

The boatmen occasionally also let their customer fish in the river. However, to enjoy freshly caught fish, you are steered to one of the pit-stops that are within the gorge. After a swim in the shallower waters surrounding these little islets you can enjoy a meal of freshly caught fish, fried or curried in the local style and served with rice. While vegetarians will have to stick to packaged food and soda that are sold in coracles floating through the falls, this meal is an experience no fish eater should skip.