It’s barely ten on a warm Sunday morning and I watch, stifling a yawn, as people throng the entrance of Shree Ganesh Pratishthan. A nondescript shop at the mouth of Kumthekar Road, the reason for its success are the scrumptious, piping-hot, perfectly-sweetened jalebis that are up for grabs. And quite literally so, as this once-a-week delicacy is invariably sold out by midday.

Quietly popular, this shop was set-up nearly 2 decades ago by Muralidhar Maheshwari, who moved from Indore to Pune looking for better prospects. A self-certified foodaholic, Murlidhar Maheshwari was infinitely disappointed by the sweets in Pune. Coming from a city that boasts of rich sweets and savouries, he set-out to give Punekars an experience of the ‘asli mithai’.

In his shop, the jalebis are made fresh, in front of your eyes. You name the quantity and the halwai (the person who makes sweets) picks up the pre-filled cloth pouch to start looping them out in the ghee (clarified butter). This variation from the oil in which they are usually fried in elsewhere, is what gives the jalebis at Shree Ganesh Pratishthan their distinct, unmistakable flavour and aroma.

The long strings of jalebis sizzle gently as I talk to Manish Maheshwari, manager of the shop. “Everything about our shop is about the quality we maintain. We don’t offer a large range of sweets, but we guarantee that all our items are of perfect quality”, says Manish proudly.

As the crowd slowly trickles out, I get my chance to talk to a jalebi connoisseur. Mr. Deodhar used to live close by, but now travels kilometres every Sunday to take home a kilogram of jalebis. Isn’t that a lot? “Well, these are supposed to last the entire week without going stale or losing their crispness. But we wouldn’t know. In our house, they get over in 2-3 days”, he smiles.

I hover around the jalebi tray, sniffing in the aroma of the still-hot delicacies. “Try one”, says Manish, eager to have me taste it. I take one, two, stop at the third and ask him to pack me 250 grams. I wish I had a bigger bag with me. Remember to carry your own bag with you since they don’t use plastic. I cajole them into giving me at least a small plastic pouch so I don't need to squeeze syrup out of my bag at the end of the day.

While the biggest draw through the year are the jalebis, the shop has other equally delicious sweets to offer. The rabadi, better known as basundi in Marathi, is unlike any in Pune, they claim. “Even better than some of the renowned sweet shops”, says Manish. “Give madam a sample.” Before I know it, a small bowl is thrust in my hands. The rabadi is just how he describes it – thick, creamy, slightly-sweet, filled with assorted dry fruits and nuts – the way most people like it, and the way I just don’t. I don't have the heart to refuse and somehow finish it, mumbling all the right words.

The Masala Milk (a thick drink of milk, sugar and dry fruits) is also a hot favourite, especially among students. Such is its popularity, that during Kojagiri – a Hindu harvest festival celebrated on a full moon night between the months of September-October – there are traffic snarls around the shop.

Muralidhar Maheshwari started Shree Ganesh Pratishthan twenty years ago to give Punekars a chance to experience the richness of his city. What stands today is an indication that he accomplished his objective. Despite being a Sunday, despite being in the middle of city, far away from where most residential locations, despite the chance of returning empty-handed, Shree Ganesh Pratishthan draws its crowds – a steady and strong loyalty of the people of Pune.