by The Balloon
Dal Lake is a piece of Paradise. Reflecting water, floating lilies, colourful shikaras (the typical small boats used as taxis on the lake). And houseboats.
Around the lake the city with its strikes, the soldiers, the "Welcome to Paradise on Earth" sign covered in barbed wire. But on the lake there's a whole different magic. They call Kashmir the Switzerland of Asia, when they probably should call Switzerland the Kashmir of Europe, for nowhere in Switzerland there is anything quite as incredible as a floating city made of carved pine wood.
Srinagar is a spectacular place. But being there without staying on the lake means missing the best part of it. The 5 am floating vegetable market. The vendors that will come close to you, while you wander on the lake selling you jewelery, shawls, handicrafts. Mister Kodak coming on his boat and asking you if you have rolls to develop. Mister Delicious who will sell you incredible almond biscuits and horrible chocolate treats. The night buzz around the light up boat houses, the "strolls" on the dark lake after the sunset prayer, the evening stroll on board your little boat.
With early morning and late night dinners, days on Dal Lake are long time shifts in which life seems to stop, and yet to be there, all together, all in one place. Eagles and birds that would make a bird-watcher's head spin, old buildings full of charm, sounds of prayers throughout the day, incredible Kashmiri food.
The problem is, finding the right houseboat is easier said than done. Blame it on the scarcity of tourists or on pure misbehavior, it is quite common to arrive on Dal Lake and be assaulted by pushy houseboat owners offering their rooms at inflated fares, and sometimes tricking unfortunate tourists into paying expensive unexpected extras.
This is why, if you wish to enjoy a hassle-free Dal Lake, your best bet is called Houseboat Mashal.
Hidden behind all the bigger and more luxurious houseboats, Houseboat Mashal might not have huge living rooms with fancy chandeliers but you won't miss them for a second. So pack your soaps and shampoo - they won't be provided there - and make the right choice.
Because Houseboat Mashal is cute. Cozy. And so warm. Ayub Pala and his family will offer you a home, not an accommodation. They will serve you delicious kawa tea and kashmiri bread in the morning, help you bargain with the shikara owners, scare scammers away from you, play cricket in the backyard. Trekking, fishing, sight-seeing or just relaxing: whatever you might want to do will be taken care of.
And just wait for the first meal that Ayub's mom will cook for you. Make sure to ask for her famous roasted potatoes and enjoy: you will understand why whoever had them can't really stop talking about how delicious they are.
Times stops and yet flies on Houseboat Mashal. You will wish your holiday was forever. In a way, it will, as you can be absolutely sure that the entire Pala family will remember you for years. They will keep in touch with you. They will consider you, after you've been there even just once, part of their family.
You'll have a great time there. You'll leave full of warm, lovely memories. And you'll have a family to go back to, on Houseboat Mashal.
Do you really want to ask for more?