If there is one thing Kalbadevi is famous for, it is its past. The first residence of Dhirubhai Ambani, the late business tycoon, Kalbadevi can boast of being an interesting Gujarati neighbourhood. And there, tucked away in the lanes of the often overlooked south Bombay locality, is the place that offers what is perhaps most authentic Gujarati feast in town: Friends Union Joshi Club.

Battling heat and hunger I reached there on a Sunday afternoon, just in time for lunch. Stepping in, what I saw immediately assured me of one thing - I would have left that place full. Surprised yet friendly eyes met me as I hurried to hide myself behind what was already waiting on the tables that were not occupied: a huge stainless steel Thali, glass and some bowls, cleaned to perfection.

Soon began the first of the many rounds that were to follow. A variety of chutneys and salad built the anticipation for the main course.  I can assure you, at Friends Union Joshi Club you are spoilt for choice. If you expect Aloo ki Sabji (Potatoes and vegetables) and decide to skip this one, my suggestion is “don't”. The spicy vegetable goes really well with the rest of the sweet curries and Kadis (a dish made from buttermilk and spices, essential to a Gujrati meal).

Halfway through my meal, I was served a choice of dry snacks like Dhoklas and Samosas. To go with the vegetables, were warm Rotis laced with ghee. I liked them enough to eat many. By the time I approached the sweet ending, I had already taken two mini breaks, but when the waiter brought in the deep purple Gulab Jamun with chocolate filling and custard on top, it was certainly not something I was going to pass. I closed my eyes and bit into the master of innovation of the dessert world, and though it was a bite worth taking, the sweet Basundi the followed immediately became the clear winner amongst the desserts. It was milky and thick and sweet. In short, something perfect to end the meal on a sweet note.

But before you mistake this as the very end of the elaborate meal, hold your breath. There is Chaach (buttermilk) too. By the time they serve it, chances are you’ll be stuffed and ready to leave. But here’s a tip you’ll thank me for. On your way out, just close your eyes and gulp it down. It is perfect to beat the heat and to digest your heavy meal.

While you’re at Friends Union Joshi Club, there is a rule to follow. When you feel you’ve had more Undia vegetable and Basundi than you can handle, be careful to avoid eye contact with the waiters. They will grab even the slightest hint and appear from nowhere to pour out another generous helping. And with their friendly smile, they will have you under their Thalis in no time. Like all Gujarati businessmen, they have mastered the art of salesmanship, and they know how to fill their customers with food, friendliness and hospitality to perfection.

In this simple restaurant one can really feel at home. I wasn’t too surprised when one of the managers filled in for a waiter who was away in the kitchen, fixing another bowl full of food for a not-so-hungry customer. The restaurant is a family business and has been there for donkey’s years. It was around to satiate Dhirubhai Ambani while Kokilaben was away and it is around now to offer you the same privilege. I could sense the pride in the owner’s eyes while he was narrating the stories of the restaurant’s past popularity.

After I was done with my lunch I paid my minimal bill and stepped out to walk in the dusty galis of Kalbadevi, carrying with me the memory of a sumptuous meal, and one that was not going to fade for a while.