Soo Ra Sang offers an unfussy Korean menu, entirely in keeping with its unpretentious furnishings and wonderfully moderate prices.

A group of Bangalorean friends turned me on to this covert Korean joint, swearing by its neat, homey charms. But every time I commence rhapsodizing about its red chilly pork in the garden city, I’m met with blank, baffled stares. Whatever its under-the-radar status, this eatery is worth seeking out. Sure, the elevator ride up is unsettling: a slow climb in a coffin-like tin papered with alarmist signs. But you might start to plan a repeat visit even as you settle around your blonde wood table, and every inch of that table is covered with banchan – those complimentary sides and accompaniments that pad out any Korean meal.

The banchan at Soo Ra Sang just keeps coming: rice flour pancakes, pickled radish, seaweed, potato and bowlfuls of beans. Adventurous eaters will delight in all that fermented goodness, but don’t fill up on the freebies because Soo Ra Sang has some of the best Korean barbecue and spiced pork I’ve had, and at prices that put Delhi’s Gung to shame.

An extensive list of Korean entrees includes their two specialties, the red chilly fry pork (jeyuk bokkem) and the green chilly fry pork (deji bulgogi), as well as tender, soy-glazed, sesame-sprinkled ribs, hand-pulled noodles and fried cutlets.

Work up an appetite before hitting the Old Airport Road in quest, because much more than just kimchi awaits.

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